With a fiery personality to match its fiery red coloration, Hemichromis bimaculatus, also known as the Jewel Cichlid or Jewelfish, is a fearless fighter. It will even take on and defeat much larger competitors! This lovely but pugnacious fish is covered with bright blue green iridescent flecks on its red and orange body. When Jewelfish are spawning, their colors become extremely vivid and intense and indeed, they are comparable to dazzling jewels.

The Jewelfish originates from the forested areas of West Africa where it lives in streams and rivers.

Thus, a suitable aquarium setup should include some hardy plants and vegetation, driftwood, and lots of rocks and stones that form caves for shelter. The substrate should consist of a fine gravel or sandy bottom. Adult Jewelfish can reach a length between 4 to 6 inches, so a minimum tank size of 55 gallons is required for full grown specimens. It is also important to use an efficient filtration system along with regular water changes in order to keep them healthy and in good color.

The temperature in the aquarium should be kept between 72-80 F with a pH of 6.5-7.5. Jewelfish are carnivorous by nature but will eat almost all types of foods that are offered. Be sure to vary their diet and include meaty fare such as shrimp, fish, and worms, as well as specially formulated cichlid pellets.

Jewelfish are very territorial and require a lot of space. They will fight with their own kind and consume smaller fishes. It is best to house them in a species only tank or with other large, hardy fishes.

Breeding the Jewelfish is not too difficult but it can be a violent affair, with a lot of chasing and nipping. It is best to begin with a group of young fish and raise them in a large tank. In time they will pair off and the couples can be transported to a tank of their own. Jewelfish are substrate spawners and will prepare for mating by digging a hole in the gravel or cleaning a flat surface. The female will then lay her eggs in the chosen nesting site and the male will fertilize them.

Both parents will share in guarding the eggs, which can number up to 500! The eggs will usually hatch in 3 to 5 days time and the fry can be fed newly hatched brine shrimp as well as finely ground flake foods.

Scientific Name: Tropheops macrophthalmus (Kirondo)
Common Name(s): Golden Yellow Tropheops
Geo. Origin: Tanzania and Mozambique
Habitat: Sediment-Free Rocky Habitat
Diet: Herbivore
Gender Differences: Dimorphic
Breeding: Maternal Mouthbrooder
Temperament: Aggressive
Conspecific Temperament: Aggressive
Maximum Size: 5.5″
Temperature: 78-82°F
pH: 7.8-8.6
Water Hardness: Hard
Difficulty: 3

If you own any tropical Fish, Reptile, Bird, Hamster, Ferret etc. this House Rsolution could prevent you from ever owning breading any of these again. It is called H.R. 669: Nonnative Wildlife Invasion Prevention Act.
Right now the only approved species of fish is a Fan Tail GoldFish.
The full text of the Resolution is here:

http://www.govtrack.us/congress/bill…?bill=h111-669

A summary is below:

1/26/2009–Introduced.
Nonnative Wildlife Invasion Prevention Act – Requires the Secretary of the Interior to promulgate regulations establishing a process for assessing the risk of all nonnative wildlife species proposed for importation into the United States, other than those included in a list of approved species issued under this Act. Sets forth factors that must be considered, including the identity of the organism to the species level, the native range of the species, whether the species has caused harm to the economy, the environment, or other animal species or human health in similar ecosystems, and the likelihood of establishment or spread of the species in the United States.
Provides procedures for issuance and expansion of a list of nonnative wildlife species approved for importation and a list of nonnative wildlife species that are prohibited.
Establishes prohibitions on: (1) importation or transportation between states of nonnative species that are not included in the list of approved species; (2) permit violations; and (3) possession, purchase, sale, barter, release, or breeding of such species.
Exempts from such prohibitions actions by law enforcement personnel to enforce this Act or by federal or state officials to prevent the introduction or establishment of nonnative wildlife species. Declares that nothing in this Act restricts the importation or transportation between states of such species by a federal agency for its own use if the species remains in its possession. Authorizes the Secretary to issue permits authorizing otherwise prohibited importation for scientific research, for medical, accredited zoological or aquarium display purposes, or for educational purposes that are specifically reviewed, approved, and verified by the Secretary if the Secretary finds that there has been a proper showing by the permittee of responsibility for the specimen and continued protection of the public interest and health.
Allows the imposition of fees on persons who submit a proposal to include a species in either of the lists to recover the costs of assessing risks of nonnative wildlife species. Establishes a Nonnative Wildlife Invasion Prevention Fund into which such fees and fines for violations will be deposited.
Redesignates the Invasive Species Council established by Executive Order 13112 as the National Invasive Species Council.

General Information
Fish Tuberculosis is an extremely dangerous disease. It is very contagious and can wipe out your entire aquarium with little warning. Infection of this disease causes small nodules on the surface of fresh water fish. Be aware that humans can contract fish tuberculosis through cracks in the skin, cuts, etc while rearranging decor, cleaning the tank and more.

Diagnosis
Here is a list of symptoms your fish may have if they are infected, as you can see by the list it would be very difficult to diagnose as these symptoms are the same for many other fish illnesses.

• loss of appetite
• fish remains in seclusion and out of site
• rapid breathing (respiration)
• eyes appear to be cloudy or “popping out”
• fish lies on its side near bottom of aquarium
• stomach of fish appears to be sunken
• whittish blotches on exterior
• degraded and frayed fins

Treatment
Treatment of fish tuberculosis is very difficult and oftentimes unsuccessful. Once the external symptoms are starting to show, it is normally too late. All fish should be removed from the tank and placed inside a hospital tank. If possible, place the fish that are most affected into a separate hospital tank. Both tanks must be treated with a strong anti-biotic such as Melafix or Pimafix. The diseased aquarium that the fish tuberculosis started in should be stripped and disinfected right away. All of the substrate must be thrown out, or clean through many stages of a bleack and water solution. When removing fish with tuberculosis, do it with extreme care since this disease can be passed on to humans although it is extremely rare. When the infection occurs in humans, it is usually in the form of an infected nodule in the skin.

Supplies needed:

• 2 Paint brushes
• 3 cans of spray paint(black,grey,brown)
• 1 tupperware container
• Spoon
• 3 liters of fiberglass resin and 70ml of hardener
• Fiberglass cloth….. not mat
• Box of rubber gloves
• 1 sheet of styrofoam
• 1 liter of acetone
• 1 tube of GE I silicone
• 1 can of “great stuff” foam
• Blow dryer

Since i have a corner bow front tank, i wanted it to go into the corner. I also decided i wanted it to be a tree trunk with its roots extending out.

So on with the carving. I used just a basic knife with a serrated edge for all of the carving. First the trunk, which as i carved it, I kept changing my mind on the outcome so i did just a basic half cylinder and figured I’d do the rest once i see how the roots look. I also used the great stuff foam to hold all of the styrofoam together and it does a great job at that. After I did the trunk I cut up a few pieces of styrofoam and glued them together, then set them in front of the trunk to get a better idea og how it all was going to look.

I forget to take pics of some of the steps and progress, but i got most of them(Click To Enlarge)

After the carving and sanding was complete I fitted the background into a corner of my house to insure a snug fit. The carving and gluing took 3-4 hours over 2 days to complete and was the most labor intensive part of the whole build, however, its not all that bad.

So on with the fiberglass. I used fiberglass cloth, which is suppose to be a lot easier to work with than other methods. The directions say to use 10ml of hardener for every liter and it will cure within 3-4 hours. I used double that and it hardened in one hour. I would not use anymore than that though since it produces a lot of heat and may harden too fast and become brittle. Directions also say to apply the mixture to the part your fiber glassing over, then put the fiberglass over that and paint or smooth more resin over it. That seemed like overkill so i just dipped my strips of cloth into the mixture and put it directly onto the styrofoam by hand while smoothing it and shaping it. I did find that cutting the cloth into strips rather than trying to do it in big pieces was a lot easier. I cut mine into 3X8 inch pieces. I also made sure to where rubber gloves, which is a must.

After getting it all covered, I waited until it was almost fully cured and did it all over again.

This is after the first layer:

I then waited a couple of days to remove the styrofoam since I planned to use acetone to remove a lot of it. This stuff also stinks, but, it’s not as bad as the fiberglass resin. I removed most of the styfofoam by hand and with a knife, and then used the acetone.

Most of the styrofoam gone:

For the paint I used krylon fusion. I done the first coat in black, and then the second in brown. I then combined them both for a more mixed color before adding a light mist over grey over top of that. After painting it all, i sealed the whole thing in one more coat of fiberglass resin and used the blow dryer on a low setting to help with curing.

Upon placing it into the aquarium I felt it was far too shiny so out it came. I had to wait for the silicone to dry before giving it a light sanding to take the shine away. Once completed I siliconed the background into the tank.

Thanks to joey020283

A disease outbreak in your tropical fish tank can wipe out your entire community of fish. Most freshwater fish diseases come from either poor water quality or from introducing new fish into the aquarium. Everyday I hear and read about how people have bought fish from their fish store only to find out later it is disease ridden. There are some ways to prevent fish disease from entering your freshwater fish tank. Following these few will help reduce fish disease.

1. Don’t add fish straight to your new setup.

2. Quarantine all new fish.

3. Don’t add too many fish at once.

4. Don’t overfeed your fish.

5. Use only feeder fish that you have grown and know do not have diseases..

6. Perform scheduled water changes.

All new aquarium setups are on the list for New Tank Syndrome and its deadly affects. New tank syndrome usually takes place within the first 3 months of setting your new aquarium up. This happens because your tank does not have enough bacteria built up to break down the ammonia to nitrite and from nitrite to nitrate.

Live plants are great to have in your home aquarium because, not only do they add character and builds the natural look and feel for the fish but they also can help breaking down the built up ammonia and nitrites levels in the water. But you also need to remember that any dead or rotten plant matter is going to add extra stress to your aquarium and water and it will make the ammonia levels climb if not removed regulary.

Once you have place the first fish in your aquarium, you have started the cycling process ( The Aquarium Nitrogen Cycle ). The fish will start producing waste which is going to start your ammonia levels climbing. By feeding the fish, the more waste it is going to create and the higher the levels will climb before the benificial bacteria called Nitrosomonas has a chance to colonize in the tank and filter which breaks down the ammonia. It can take anywhere up to 5 weeks or more for this bacteria to fully establish in your tank and filter. If you have too much ammonia in your tank, it can damage your fish’s gills that can kill your fish very quickly and is more dangerous at a higher temperatures and ph levels of 7 and above.

You can do a water change to help drop your ammonia levels in your tank or there are products you can purchase that will neutralize the ammonia if the levels get too high but don’t forget if you neutralize the ammonia, you are preventing bacteria from colonizing and forming so you need to be very careful.

Now you have nitrites in your aquarium water and it is very important to keep the nitrites to minimal levels, or ever better none at all like the ammonia. Now your aquarium will start colonizing a bacteria called Nitrobacter in your filter and tank that will break down the nitrites to nitrates. Like the first bacteria mentioned above, this one as well takes quiet a few weeks to establish well. Nitrite will irritate your fish and it also affects the blood and they develop Brown Blood Disease. This stops the fish being able to absorb oxygen from the water which can result in death.

A water change will help drop the nitrite levels.

Now the nitrites is being broken down to nitrate. Nitrate is the last one of this process. Nitrate is no where near as dangerous as ammonia or nitrite. Even though this is not a deadly chemical, it is still best to keep it to a very minimum. Regular water changes will help keep nitrate to a minimum.

At any time when you are trying to treat your water for one deadly chemical, usually another will change in level, so make sure you keep a eye on them all. Huge fluctuations in the levels of these chemicals will most definately end up in death for the fish. Most fish that die in the first few months of a tank setup usually have fallen to New Tank Syndrome.

Diagnosis
Fish that have swim bladder disease appear to have an abnormal swimming pattern, usually with the tail end up. The fish may even float upside down or look to be stuck at the top of the water and unable to swim down, or sometimes its the other way round and they may lie on the bottom of the tank,and then are unable to rise to the surface of the tank. Fish that have swim bladder disease will continue to try and eat,with a normal appetite.The most common cause of swim bladder disease is improper diet. An improper diet can end up leading to intestinal gas or intestinal blockages. Intestinal blockages can irritate the bowel, which gives bacteria or other parasites an entry point where they can cause damage to the fishes swim bladder.Fish that are fed a lot of dried foods, like pellets, are more likely susceptible. This condition is frequently observed in the later stages of Malawi Bloat, which is normally due to an improper diet as well an intestinal irritation.

Treatment
This disorder is due mainly because of an improper diet, a change to their feeding needs should be made. Dried food that contains lots of protein should be kept to a minimum. Pellets and other dense foods should be soaked before feeding or completely removed from their diet. Food contains alot of fiber should be introduced, such foods include zucchini, squash, spinach,lettuce, peas, and grated carrots. If you think that your fish is a victim to a bacterial infection, treat the fish with some sort of medicated food.

General Information
Anchor Worms are nocturnal creatures. Although you can’t see them during the day this does not mean they’re not there. The best time to check your fish for anchor worms is at night or when the tank is quite dark. It can take several hours after you have turned the light off and the room is darkened before the anchor worms will appear. Sometimes using a red light will make them visible to the human eye, quick movements should be avoided while observing them as it will scare the worms back into hiding.

Diagnosis
Fish that are infected can be seen with a whitish red worm-like thread, approx 1/4 of an inch long. These parasites are found anywhere on the body of the fish, including the eyes,the gills and fins. Raised ulcers may sometimes appear at the site of where it has attached itself. Consequently, a secondary bacterial infection may occur. The first signs that your fish may be infected include rubbing or scraping itself against objects in the aquarium such as rocks ect. The fish do this in an effort to remove the parasite.

Treatment
Any visible worms should be killed by dabbing them with a cotton swab dipped in Potassium Permanganate or an anti-parasitic medication. You should then carefully remove the worms from the fish using a pair of tweezers. It is a good idea to kill the worms before removing them from the fish. If the worms burrow to deep removing them while still alive could cause the fish some pain and significant physical damage.When you have removed the worm or worms, you can then dab the fishes wounds with some Methylene Blue to stop any secondary bacterial infections from starting. It is also recommended that you feed the fish with a medicated food.At this stage you need to treat the tank tank as well. Using Fluke Tabs, Clout, Paragon or Trifon will help to kill any of the unseen, free swimming baby worms.

Scientific Name: Cyphotilapia frontosa (Kigoma)
Common Name(s): 7-Stripe Frontosa
Habitat: Deep Rocky Habitat
Diet: Carnivore
Gender Differences: Monomorphic
Breeding: Maternal Mouthbrooder
Temperament: Mildly Aggressive
Conspecific Temperament: Mildly Aggressive
Maximum Size: 15″
Temperature: 75 – 77°F
pH: 8.6
Water Hardness: Very Hard
Difficulty: 2